Frequently Asked Questions about Treats and Training

1) Do I need to use treats to train behaviors?
Yes and no. Your dog must be motivated for training to occur—period. That motivation will never come from your perceived status or because your dog wants to “please” you. Those are just popular myths.

Instead, motivation only comes from one of two places: wanting what you have or fearing what you’ll do. Since fear-based methods are unethical and loaded with side effects, using something your dog wants is not just the best option—it’s the only responsible one.

For most dogs, food rewards (i.e., treats) are the go-to weapon-of-choice. This is because most dogs like them and they’re easy to deliver quickly. If your dog is motivated by play, praise, or petting—awesome! Just remember: what motivates your dog is up to them, not you. 

2) Isn’t using treats just bribery?
That depends on how you define “bribery.” Think of it this way: do you consider your salary a bribe? After all, you probably wouldn’t go to work if your employer stopped paying you. More likely, you consider your salary compensation for your time and effort.

The same logic applies to your dog. You’re asking them to perform tasks they wouldn’t necessarily choose on their own, and they’re doing it because you’ve got something they want. Sure, you could call that bribery—but only if you’re also willing to say your job is bribery, too.

3) What treats are best?
The best treats are the ones your dog wants most. If you’re not sure which treats are most motivating, let your dog decide. Offer two options side-by-side in closed fists and see which one your dog chooses most often. Be sure to switch hands between repetitions to rule out hand bias.

If your dog enjoys many different treats, consider saving the highest-value ones for more difficult training challenges—like asking for a recall away from a squirrel.

4) What if my dog has dietary restrictions or allergies?
You still have options—though possibly fewer than other owner-trainers. Some dogs are motivated enough by play to work without food at all. Others with restricted diets can often tolerate simple ingredients like sweet potato, apples, pumpkin, or hydrolyzed prescription foods.

You may need to get creative: applesauce or pureed pumpkin in a squeeze tube can work well. Just be sure to consult your veterinarian before introducing any new foods if your dog has known sensitivities.

5) What if my dog won’t train for the treats I have?
There are two likely reasons. First, the treats may not be valuable enough in that context. Kibble might be fine in the kitchen, but it’s unlikely to compete with distractions in a dog park. 

Second, the task may be too hard for your dog’s current skill level. Your dog might hold a Stay perfectly at home, but that doesn’t mean they’re ready to do it in a crowd. The solution is to scale back to a simpler version of the task that your dog can complete successfully (aiming for 80–100% success), then gradually increase difficulty (i.e., crowd size) as they improve.

6) What if my dog stopped liking the treats they previously loved?
That’s normal. Like people, dogs’ preferences fluctuate throughout the day and over time. Even your favorite food would lose its appeal if you had it every day. Keep a variety of treats on hand, and don’t be surprised if your dog sometimes says “no thanks” to yesterday’s favorite.

7) How many treats do I need?
More than most people expect. When teaching a new behavior, a good rule of thumb is one treat every 10 seconds—about 6 per minute. For a 10-minute training session, that’s around 60 treats.

Fortunately, these don’t need to be expensive store-bought options. In fact, small, soft, homemade treats often work better. See my post on affordable treat ideas for inspiration.

8) What is “training treat-sized”?
Usually around 1/4-inch cubes—small enough to swallow quickly but big enough not to be missed. Two important caveats: (1) If the treat is so small your dog chokes, size up. (2) If your dog takes longer than about three seconds to chew it, size down.

9) Should a bigger dog get bigger treats?
Not necessarily. Unless the treat is dangerously small, large dogs don’t need larger treats. They often prefer receiving several small treats in a row rather than one big one. This also gives you more opportunities to reinforce good behavior in rapid succession.

10) Should I worry about overfeeding during training?
Only if you’re not adjusting their meals accordingly. If your dog is gaining weight, reduce the amount fed at mealtime to compensate for training rewards. That way, you’re not overfeeding—you’re just distributing the calories differently.

Some dogs actually prefer working for food over getting it for free, a phenomenon known as “contra freeloading.” Just be sure your dog is still getting a complete, balanced diet. Training treats—especially things like hot dogs—shouldn’t replace your dog’s primary nutrition source.

11) What if I don’t want to handle any of these treats?
If you’re not controlling the motivator, you’re not training. Unless your dog will reliably work for play or praise, you’ll need to get comfortable with some type of food reward. Try drier treats like Bil-Jac Liver Treats or wear rubber gloves if texture bothers you. If that doesn’t help, you may need to set aside your preferences for the sake of your dog’s success.

12) Will I always need to use rewards?
If the behavior is trained very strongly, not always—but your dog should always believe there’s a chance of earning a reward. To build that belief, reinforce the behavior consistently at first. Over time, once the behavior is well-established in the context you need it, you can shift to rewarding occasionally or unpredictably.

Just keep in mind: if a behavior is never reinforced, it will eventually fade. Rewards keep behaviors alive—whether you’re using them all the time or just often enough to keep your dog guessing.